Friday, 17 December 2010

Wandering

I've been thinking recently about what the attraction of walking is to me. It's not a new musing, but the answers become more clear at different times, then wax and wane almost as with the moon.

There's the obvious link, connection to nature. It's a fundamental part of me, and I suspect, most if not all those who chose to follow what I write. It's a part of me that has grown since I can remember living in Norfolk where I moved to when I was 7. In fact even before then I remember in Nottinghamshire playing in the fringes of the school field, in the scrubby bushes at the intersections of paths running behind houses. Funny to think that those vague memories have had such an impact.

Norfolk was like a Betjeman poem, an age of long lost innocence. Allowed to roam free in the fields, being in effect a young naturalist, knowing the movement and patterns of birds and flowers. The trees spoke most to me; the rivers I swam in in the summer, away from the pike who were supposed to eat young childrens toes!

Moving to Sheffield when I was 12 actually felt like a huge blow. The Sheffield I knew at that time was limiting. I didn't discover the moors for a few years until I started wandering out there after school. Foreign bird life, plant life, smells of the peat. Different to the Broads. My connection with nature was regained to some extent through studying English Lit at O level (I was the last year to study these!), reading Betjeman and other poets of that bygone era. Reading also the classics, Brontes, Eliot, but especially developing an affection for Thomas Hardy. My sentimental nature was developed further by walking alongside Jane Eyre as she sacrificed herself on the altar at Stonehenge. I used to wonder at the characters in Hardy's novels, the distances they would walk across Salisbury Plain, often developing life threatening illnesses in the process.

Fast forward into my more adult life where I discovered other authors through various friends and influences. The inspiration seemed to be more haphazard. I read Patrick Leigh Fermor as he travelled across Europe around the time of the first World War, Nicholas Crane walking his umbrella along the spine of mountains, even travels in Albania (Those Accursed Mountains!), and spiritual quests with Paulo Coelho and Gerard Hughes. They seemed to engage more with the spirit of place than I think I'd allow myself to see recently. I do like to stop and examine and contemplate as anyone who has had the pleasure of my walking company will know. I think this is an essential part of my experience and one that achieving a certain mileage a day may limit.

Recently my yearning has been to walk the PCT; reading Chris Townsend's Great Backpacking Adventure and even this year, Dan White's Cactus Eaters got the wanderlust juices flowing. But how much may my experience be compromised by having to walk?

Thoughts seem to have crystallised more recently in that I find the sense of journeying without necessarily a trail to follow, very appealing. It's a sense of discovery, of myself and the surroundings. The same passage of miles under my feet, but maybe not in a sense of being so planned.

I personally don't know if this is the right 'path' for me, and I am aware of a certain naivety perhaps. But at present that is what draws me in. The journey. The wandering in the truest sense!

This post is pure indulgence for me, and without regard almost for any readership. It's an expression of my current thoughts and feelings and where I gain and may seek spiritual nourishment from, as it is indeed a very spiritual experience for me. Maybe something I will write further on in the future.

Norfolk
by Sir John Betjeman

How did the Devil come? When first attack?
These Norfolk lanes recall lost innocence,
The years fall off and find me walking back
Dragging a stick along the wooden fence
Down this same path, where, forty years ago,
My father strolled behind me, calm and slow.

I used to fill my hands with sorrel seeds
And shower him with them from the tops of stiles,
I used to butt my head into his tweeds
To make him hurry down those languorous miles
Of ash and alder-shaded lanes, till here
Our moorings and the masthead would appear.

There after supper lit by lantern light
Warm in the cabin I could lie secure
And hear against the polished sides at night
The lap lap lapping of the weedy Bure,
A whispering and watery Norfolk sound
Telling of all the moonlit reeds around.

How did the Devil come? When first attack?
The church is just the same, though now I know
Fowler of Louth restored it. Time, bring back
The rapturous ignorance of long ago,
The peace, before the dreadful daylight starts,
Of unkept promises and broken hearts.

17 comments:

  1. Norfolk has a hold on many. Bill Bryson finds inspiration here now. He likes to travel. As for you. Go stray on the PCT and follow your dream there and beyond while no commitments hold you. You'll only pass this road once.

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  2. Your 'pure indulgence' is undoubtedly born of the spirit that is within all of us who 'indulge' in the great outdoors, who find solace in the peace and quiet, who find the adrenaline rush of the rock face or ice couloir.
    Long may that 'pure indulgence' reign especially when you have the power of word images to take us with you on your magical wanderings into both your world of the moors and dales and into our own inner worlds of peace and calm. Thank you.

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  3. I think you can over plan a walk sometimes. I've certainly set off for a few days without a very firm plan as to exactly where I'm going to go. It does provide a strong feeling of freedom. One of the effects, though, if you can take it, is succumbing to a reluctance to move from a good camping spot or having a nice, relaxing laze around on a driech morning.... If you have a route to do, you have to push on.... There can be a time for both of these approaches.

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  4. I lived in Norfolk for eleven years when I started teaching and came to love it. Betjeman's phrase rapturous ignorance is a wonderful way of describing childhood. I had a country childhood too, on the Vale of York, and it does shape you for life.

    I am absolutely sure that you will have read Bruce Chatwin, but I am still mentioning him just to be sure.

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  5. The PCT is something that is firmly fixed in your mind and clearly has been for some time. Every time we talk we mention it.

    Does the PCT really fit with the way you enjoy your walks. You like to explore things as you pass and absorb everything around you in a way most never do. On the PCT your senses would explode with the sights, sounds and smells of an alien yet strangely familiar world.

    More seriously is a walk like the PCT really you. Having to walk long distances day after day to fit the walk into the window of time. I have no doubt you could walk the distance its all mind over matter, but would your mind be restrained far too much knowing you had targets to achieve to get to the end (if indeed that was your target the experience could be your aim).

    This may not make a lot of sense but hopefully you understand what I'm blathering on about. Love the post and sounds like your reasons for walking are becoming clearer :-)

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  6. Lovely post again, Helen. Steven's comments are interesting. I like the idea of the long hikes like the PCT or the Continental Divide, but I don't think I'd ever do one. I don't have enough time, money or, to be honest, desire to complete something like that. There is something about long trails that goes against the grain of my 'nature.' I think I'd feel as if I was being pulled along rails against my will. I prefer the feeling of a more open walk, making descisions about destinations on a day-to-day basis.

    But that's just me. I hope you get to do it soon! If you do it while I'm still here I might even join you for a stretch.

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  7. Hello Pat, Yes, I have a number of Chatwin books, not read through them all yet, but Songlines is one of my favourites!
    It's funny to think you taught my brother, yet you aren't that much older than me. And you were around when I was experiencing exactly what I wrote about here, though whether you knew this was going on in a young girls head is unlikely! You may have had something to do with my love of writing though; I remember you reading a novel you'd written in class; well, the village was so small that I think all the school years were gathered together for that; I was one of just 8 in my year :-)

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  8. Mike, I think you know exactly what I'm talking about. I often feel I HAVE to move on, when I don't especially want to. Reintroducing that flexibility would be good, but when I eventually start work again I am conscious I will be at the mercy of strict start and finish times which wont necessarily lend themselves to a more meandering approach... I do notice that the need to 'get on' hinders my want to stop and sketch, or to make written notes. Something I want to change or I am cheating myself of the experience I so much enjoy.

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  9. Steve and Mark, your comments are complimentary to eachother and to my thoughts currently. I feel as if I have a certain NEED to do the PCT, but if I can't do it in a way that satisfies my need for experience and *wander*lust then I question the point for me.
    You both seem to be on my wavelength in terms of understanding and it's quite gratifying that while I wrote this for me, my friends 'get' me and can relay their thoughts. Thank you :-) I shall continue to decipher and decide!

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  10. As I was on a road trip yesterday, I was thinking it's been too long since our last "Helenism". You must have been writing this at that same moment because when I got home later you had published it. I waited until the house was quiet and I could really enjoy it before I started reading.

    The PCT draws me too Helen. Luckily for me though, it's not so far from where I live. My wife and I spent our first week on the PCT last April, and I didn't want it to end. It's actually what got me to start writing about my backpacking, more for me than anyone else. So while you wrote this for yourself, sharing it with us is anything but selfish.

    A PCT thru-hike is like a full time job, and you have to love it. I think what you're struggling with is that you may want to wander the high Sierras more like John Muir than say Andrew Skurka. Both are great ways to experience the wilderness, but it's a personal choice. There's no reason you can't spend months wandering rather than logging 25 miles per day, as either would be an amazing adventure.

    Thank you once again for your "selfish" posting...which was anything but. :~)>

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  11. Solitary Walker, Thank you! As a long admirer of your writing that means a lot. I have much to learn and read, but the winter months are a perfect opportunity to make some gains!

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  12. The journey itself has always been the draw for me - a very subtle intoxicant. I don't think it has ever been about nature or the outdoors (although I find comfort in both - and they are very different), more the appreciation and savouring of the unconventional and of fresh challenges, the opportunity to wake up somewhere different and compelling and to exist in a novel realm of curiosity and adventure. Each time I travel somewhere unfamiliar, I learn about the world around me and the about how I fit into it, and who I am. It is something bold to stride through the penumbra of the shadow of the unknown and into that which scares and delights us most - the unexplored and uncharted. Good luck with your decision.

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  13. I echo Maz's sentiment. The joy is in our ability and flexibility to deal with the unexpected. Find the airfare and go. Don't come home until you're done, and savor every day. (That Townsend has a similar effect on me.)

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  14. Oh Philip! I loved what you wrote and I laughed in glee! You are taking the bravery test right now and are very much setting a great example to the rest of us. I *will* get there :-)

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  15. Oh Philip! I loved what you wrote and I laughed in glee! You are taking the bravery test right now and are very much setting a great example to the rest of us. I *will* get there :-)

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  16. Any more thoughts on this?
    I enjoyed reading Chris Ts journey on this and his other walks. I have several of his books, 12, with 2 more due out un Aug and Nov.
    The little green one.
    T.

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  17. Any more thoughts on this?
    I enjoyed reading Chris Ts journey on this and his other walks. I have several of his books, 12, with 2 more due out un Aug and Nov.
    The little green one.
    T.

    ReplyDelete