WHW Day 7 Kinlochleven to Fort William

A grey day in Kinlochleven. It seemed fitting really. I moved my body stiffly to try to wake it up and begrudgingly it complied. I didn't set off until gone half 8 and it seemed as if the odd couple of tents nearby were of the same view; nothing stirred from them as I packed away.

I walked along the main road in the town, around towards the school and a hotel, and started the climb up out of Kinlochleven following the usual signs. Gradually my body warmed up and became a bit more flexible. I kept feeding it bits of flapjack to keep it going and it seemed to do the trick. Thank God for the poles too! I'm impressed with how much more leverage you can get when you're going uphill with them. If I hadn't have had them it would have been slow and painful. As it was the haul up out of Kinlochleven wasn't my preferred start to the day!

I laughed as I crossed the road that led to Mamore Lodge (someone had told me that locally they call it The Shining!); that soon stopped as I dug in for the next steep bit! The cloud hung low over the Loch and hills and I climbed up slowly but steadily. Following the switchbacks I left the bits of birch and other trees to where the path eventually levelled out and then started to drop. A bit more flapjack! After crossing Alt Coire na h-Eirghe the walk went parallel to Alt Nathrach and was pretty easy, and I got into a better rhythm. I could see from the map that I was in the presence of some great hills, but I didn't actually get to see them! I still enjoyed this section though; it was a great place to be alone with my thoughts and let the regularity of my walking lull me into a trance!

I passed the ruin at Tigh-na-sleubhaich and then, almost a mile later, I came across the one in Lairigmor, barely more than a pile of stones. I liked this area, it felt quite bleak and I appreciated the hardship people trying to make a living must have felt. The rain added a bit of atmosphere to the surroundings and I could almost feel people around me. Luckily I don't tend to get spooked by things like that and just soaked it all up (including the rain).

After a time, the undulating path took a distinct turn around the south west end of Meall a' Chaorainn; at least I could tell from the map it was there! The cloud cover was just too low to see that much at all. It was a bit disappointing to walk without getting to see the tops much but I did enjoy just the simple act of walking. It felt almost meditative at times and there was still plenty to see. At least the rain had seemedd to go; a big plus!

Reaching the start of a plantation I sat down and took a break, despite the midges! They weren't too bad which I found surprising, especially after being hounded by them on Rannoch, and being close to the trees and water. It was pretty peaceful, I didn't see a soul. I had yet more flapjack and made a quick brew. Thinking back on that now it still makes me feel at peace. I did a bit of pencil work as I was waiting for the water to boil, just woodland inside the flap of a book, but it helped me to feel connected to the landscape even more. I was also mindful that this was the last day and while some parts had just been a pain, some parts had been brilliant. And I felt a sense of loss that this was going to be it, until the next multi day walk. I really enjoyed the pattern that my life took on, so simple and satisfying.

Eventually though I shifted myself and started the way gently down, trying to dodge the water overrunning the streams as much as I could, hooray for poles again! The path the went uphill a bit which I thought was a tad unfair; surely it should all be downhill now to Glen Nevis! After a short area back out in the open I met the plantations again. Some parts of the forest seemed very dark, and the contrast was made greater as the cloud actually started to lift a bit! Wow! Even better, it actually stopped raining!!! I enjoyed the forest walk, the smell of the pine was increasing as the weather started to warm up a bit. I considered taking off my jacket but thought that was a bit rash.

Sliding along the footbridge crossing Allt Coire a Mhuilnn, which was beautiful, and full, I managed to not fall over. I had managed two days in a row of not falling over; a good run for me!

The next section of the walk which would eventually take me down into Glen Nevis felt a bit like someone was playing mind games with me. I found it hard to judge the distance I'd covered and crossed so many streams I couldn't identify one from another! There were stretches of straight forward, straight paths, and then undulating up and down sections, sometimes even a bit on the steep side. It was a case of just getting on with it. The trees were dense but then suddenly opened out for a quick tease and then I was plunged back into the Forest of Fanghorn.

At this point though I knew I was headed for the last stretch; the path finally decided which direction it was going to take and the forestry road picked it up. I caught glimpses of the side of Ben Nevis but the top was of course covered with cloud. I didn't mind, I just felt good that I was there.

Dropping down the path left the forestry track, after a couple of hundred yards I emerged next to the Braveheart Car Park (cringe). From there it was a case of tarmac bashing which was okay as far as it goes, but like many people, I wondered why they route the official route this way? It felt like a bit of an anticlimax to pass the resi areas and finally I arrived at the end point where I dug the wet camera out and took a picture.

From there I plodded on into town and heaved myself up the tiny hill to the backpackers hostel where I'd left my car. Luckily someone was milling around; I didn't expect to be able to get my keys until much later on. I had a coffee with them and a chat and then took the car around to Morrisons for a sandwich and a slab of chocolate.

I called my family and a couple of friends; so weird to be able to talk at relative leisure now that I could charge my phone. I took my rubbish into the Train Station where I saw a sign for a shower so I paid £3.50 for a really nice cubicle with a hair dryer and shampoo and a fluffy white towel! Bliss! I hadn't had a shower for a few days and there was no time limit so I stood for ages.

As I came back to reality I exited the Station feeling like a completely different woman, I spied a figure walking towards me. It was Tony Whewell again! I was so pleased to see him, especially as I hadn't said goodbye to him properly back near Inversnaid. He'd just got into Fort William himself but was in a bit of a rush; his wife had posted on a Caldera Cone and resupplies to the Post Office, but the one at Corpach rather than Fort Bill. I offered to do my Trail Angel bit and taxi him around to get what he needed, and it was loads of fun! After picking up his parcels in Corpach he dissembled his pack, repacked and sent off things he no longer needed, then we picked up a charger from a phone shop nearer town, and then did a fast mini tour of the outdoor shops so he could get more moscoils and drybags to protect his maps he'd had delivered. All the ones he'd used til then had started to do that paper mache trick; he admitted to me that the rain and midges was one of the worst parts of his LEJOG so I felt slightly better about how I'd been hacked off at times!

The sun started to come out; the first time we'd seen it for days. Even better, Ben Nevis actually cleared! It was great to see that view and almost brought a proper full stop to the Way.

It wasn't long though before we said our goodbyes and Tony left from the point I'd picked him up from, for continuity. I was again alone, and feeling frustrated because I wanted to carry on walking. That opportunity came in a small way when I received a text from someone, telling me that the official end to the WHW had actually moved and that it was down near the other end of Fort William. I wasn't going to bother to walk there; as far as I was concerned I had completed it. But then a little nagging voice got to me, so I wandered off down the main throughfare.

There was an old chap sat next to it...

I found out subsequently that this end didn't become official until 11th September 2010 so for anyone looking to complete it in the future, you've an extra mile to go!